9 Sep 2025

Distinct Sandbar Behavior on a Gently Sloping Shoreface Sea-Breeze Dominated Beach

Abstract: Sandbars are common features in sandy nearshore environments that readily migrate in response to changing hydrodynamic conditions and can provide coastal protection by inducing wave breaking and through sediment feeding to the beach. A comprehensive 9-year data set of weekly to bi-weekly surveys of the beach and shallow nearshore, undertaken on an accretive micro-tidal sea-breeze dominated beach along the southeastern coast of Mexico, are presented here that shed new insights into hydrodynamic drivers of inner surf zone sandbar and shoreline dynamics. During spring-summer, short period waves drive offshore sandbar migration. Winter storms generate more energetic swell waves that induce onshore sandbar migration. Seasonal changes of shoreline and inner sandbar position are coupled, with on-shore sandbar migration being synchronous to seasonal shoreline advance, suggesting a gradual feeding of sediment from the bar system onto the beach. Analysis of the data are used to explore the physical drivers of sub-seasonal sandbar evolution at the site. The sandbar dynamics in the study area, showing an opposite behavior to conventional expectation of storm-induced offshore transport, are well correlated to seasonal changes of waves properties. This distinct sandbar behavior might be present at other gently sloping shoreface sea-breeze dominated sandy beaches.